Friday, December 29, 2006

Ferny Undergrowth

North & south island, New Zealand - 14-21, Nov 2006
You know that silver fern the All Blacks wear on their shirt. Well, it's not some random affectation or marketeer's brainchild - New Zealand is awash with ferns. Admittedly none of them I saw were silver. Green seemed to be the in colour this season.


See what I mean. Pretty ferny, huh?

More ferns in amongst some trees. There are plenty of those as well.

A mighty fern.

That's ferny.

Furly fern.

Woody scene with fern elements.

Not so ferny but I like it.

Strange orange undergrowth. Soooo last season.

Close up of the orange stuff. I think it's what they make Tang out of.

Wednesday, December 27, 2006

Rotorua - kinda eggy

New Zealand, North Island - 9-13 Nov, 2006
So, after six days of acting like a rabbit dazzled by the bright lights of a juggernaut that represents NZ's biggest city (about the size of Wigan), I got my act together and managed to leave Auckland. Maybe I'd over done it on the sushi. Maybe so.

I decided to avoid the GAPers' stalwarts of the Kiwi Experience, Stray or Magic buses, the equivalent of an 18-30 party bus where the fresh faced youths bump off each other and get a bleary & beery eyed view of some of the most dramatic and remote bars in NZ. These are sometimes referred to as Shag Wagons or perhaps more charmingly F*ck Trucks (apologies for the use of a swear word to Mrs Gorringe, my probation officer). I opted for InterCity, the equivalent of our National Express. The clientele is a more mature crowd that still gets dressed up in ill fitting sports jackets complete with knackered suitcases tied up with string. Other than showing myself up with my dress sense, I fitted in quite well.

My first planned stop was Waitomo down the west side of the north island. It's famous for its caves and the GAPers like to go tubing in the fast flowing rivers that run through the cave network. We'll never know whether I would have paid good money to do what as a kid I did with an old tractor inner tube down Harrold weir - the rain had been falling for the last three days meaning the water level was too high. Instead I found myself with a group of Japanese tourists ogling into the pitchy caves at glow worms - oooh. Outside the rain had really started to bucket down. I still hadn't found the reason I was in NZ.


I pulled the pin on an overnight stop in Waitomo and climbed back on the bus heading for Rotorua, famous for its volcanic activity: bubbling mud pools, geysers (jets of steamy water rather than Shoreditch-finned mockneys), steaming lakes and eggy odour. The whole place had the smell of brimstone and were it not for the lake view,collection of seventies cars and the fact it was coming down in stair rods, it could have been mistaken for hell-lite.

It was in the Rotorua hostel (closest to the bus depot on account of tipping rain) that I managed to lock myself out of my dorm room whilst taking a nocturnal leak. Things would have been better if I hadn't done a McCann and scampered to the bathroom in the buff. I don't know whether the unfortunate dorm mate that had to get up and open the door was more annoyed at being woken from his slumbers or more shocked at what presented itself in the unflattering neon light of the hallway. I didn't see him in the morning, he had left early, perhaps even before he had put his shoes on.

I have a smashing wee video clip of the bubbly mud but I haven't figure out how or indeed if I can upload vids onto the BigBlagBlog.


A'wight Geyser!


A strange coloured lake with steam and stinking of eggs.


A picture of my towel before I washed it. Only kidding, I haven't washed it yet.

A sort of rock ledge with funny coloured deposits cascading down it like some overspill of goo (but it was more crusty than gooey, how odd).

Bonfire night - it's THE BOMB

Auckland - Nov 5, 2006
Before I scampered out of Auckland hunting for the true meaning of NZ (and also trying to avoid liver failure), I got invited to a Bonfire Night celebration by a friend of my friend Ian, Sarah Valentine. This was great news because if there's one event in the calendar that I love more than another it is Bonfire Night. Odd that it gets celebrated all the way down in NZ, just a hangover from more British times I guess and let's face it, why would you give up any event that involves fireworks and 'controlled' arson? Bloody fab.

Added to the excitement of exploding gunpowder, the party was at some 70s NZ rock star's house. Sarah described him as the David Bowie of New Zealand - quite an accolade. I think his name was Jeff. Anyway, he was a top fella and very happy to have this drop out drop in on his party.

Nothing will ever live up to last year's display in Victoria Park, London when Lizzie and I witnessed a fifth scale model of parliament go up in flames as a 20ft mechanical Guy Fawkes danced atop of the blaze, but as home displays go, this was quite fun. It was livened by a bunch of tight trousered teenagers with asymmetric fringes dancing about the garden and shooting flares at each other. No sign of the biscuit tin, battery powered torch and arms length taper. I can't criticise really as I was doing the same sort of thing at their age, probably worse. It's a wonder I have all my limbs and my vision's OK...touch wood.

Sorry no pics. I forgot my camera.

Tuesday, December 26, 2006

Oh dear

At this rate I might not even get to see any cricket on Day3 (am actually in Melbourne, Australia at the moment, a trick of the BligBlagBlog that makes out I'm still in NZ). At least the rain that follows me around the world might ensure there's still some play on Thursday.

NZ - what am I doing here?

Auckland was my first exposure to hostel living; in Mexico it had been cheap hotels and the US had been with friends other than the weird St Pauls Hotel in San Francisco (some of the regulars there would have eaten your average hostel dweller for breakfast and picked their teeth with the bones to boot). In Auckland I had randomly picked X-Base in Fort Street as my home - a big party-centric hostel or backpackers as they call them. (I didn't know that before I checked in.)

I had come from the travelllorrr free zones of Mexico and San Francisco and had landed in Auckland: Travelllorrr Central, the Piccadilly Circus of GAP yearers, a thronging crush of Brit, German, US and Canadian 20-somethings (and younger) with their cliques of geeks and sleeks. All of them running around like horny Jack Russells, rubbing up against each other and barking boozily. Those too cool for school (although only marginally too old) hanging around the pool table like it was back in the sixth form common room, the internet rooms full of the white noise of kids Skyping home. In short, I felt like a geography teacher on a field trip - I had the cords, all I was lacking was a tweed jacket with leather elbow patches.

Here's an example of a typical night:



Gather in the hostel kitchen and start getting excited. Green light.



Get to know some new friends, have some drinking games. Amber light.



And out we spill into the backpacker friendly bars and clubs. Red light.



Some of the more dangerous types who haven't forged a meaningful relationship over an Export Gold or vodka Red Bull carry on until dawn with Fijian rum. Lights OUT!

I was in Auckland for six days. That's three days too many in anyone's book. I had to get out of Auckland with cords and thorn proof tweed jacket intact.

Monday, December 25, 2006

Biggles DJs in NZ

Seems some people keep a few aces up their sleeve: I noticed that my friend Biggles was DJing in NZ. Well I never.


Not to be out done, I seem to have my own store...

...and it sells kids' party clothes...!


Why, just for once, can't I be the cool one? Just once, that's all I ask!

Barefoot boxing

Auckland - Nov 3, 2006
I emerged from Auckland airport to witness the sunrising on the southern hemisphere, slightly unnerved that Nov 2 had escaped me somewhere en route. From this point on I was following the traditional plan - push on and see what happens. On the Skybus into town I carefully reviewed my accommodation options and used the tried and tested method of selecting one - pick the first in the list.

First impressions of Auckland:

1. There seem to be a number of people without shoes (and not homeless and not crusty hippy types either), just padding about barefoot out of choice. I have to say they usually weren't wearing suits atop. (This phenomenon got out of control further down in the south island.)

2. There are a similarly large number of people carrying cardboard boxes. So many so that I noticed it and it started to fascinate me. Maybe it's a bit like when you're a kid and your parents got a new car (well, usually secondhand but new to them anyway) and all of a sudden the roads seem to be packed with the same make and model. Who knows? Certainly not me.

Rather like with the Mexican Goths of Morelia I was a little too shy to whip the camera out and snap these two strange facets of Auckland life.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Memo to self: do not take up a career as a journalistic photographer

"Errr..sorry to bother you, would you mind if I took a picture...silly question, of course you would...sorry...how crass of me...please forgive me...here, have a Milky Bar...I won't trouble you any more...I'm off now...sorry...forget I ever asked..."
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Instead, here are a couple of snaps of the city of Auckland. If you look hard, I'm sure you'll see someone barefoot and carrying a box.

Downtown in the City of Sails, so called because everyday there's at least one shop that has discounted the price of its wares. [Must have a word about the spelling error with the City Council.]

A volcanic crater (I forget the name of it...let's call it Tongatingariro) looking north to the city

PS How sad is it that I'm doing this on Christmas Day? I think it's time for a sherry.

Sunday, December 24, 2006

I seem to be missing a day

I left San Francisco on 1 Nov, 2006 and arrived in NZ on the 3 Nov, 2006. So, did anyone see what happened to Nov 2, 2006? If so, drop me a note and let me know how it all panned out as it slipped me by!

Merry Christmas One & Ball

A very merry Christmas to all of you. More to the point, haven't you got something better to be doing during Yuletide than read this nonsense? Surely you should be bickering with your siblings over why you shouldn't put empty After Eight wrappers back in the box or checking Aunt Maude hasn't swallowed her top set after downing half a bottle of Harvey's Bristol Cream and crashing out on the rattan couch (it's in the conservatory...quick, go check)?

Regardless, thanks for checking in. Here are some delightful Christmas decs in honour of Mr Susan - my MIRROR BALLS! Look at them shine...look at the shine...look at them shine...look at them shine...ooh that's cold...look at them shine...


Merry merry and tinsel to you all!

[Don't worry Declan & Jules, I hung them back up - no damage.]

Saturday, December 23, 2006

Scribblings & tunes

Reading took a distinct back seat during my San Francisco sojourn. Here's what I was eyeballing and grooving to:

A Short History of Tractors in Ukrainian - Marina Lewycka: not as boring as the name might suggest
Four Great Tragedies (Hamlet, Macbeth, Othello, Romeo & Juliet) - Shakespeare: on going a bit like Bobo's Book of Modern Coin Magic, a book that might circumnavigate the world - now that's magic
The Confidential Agent - Graham Greene: not one of Greene's best but still a great dark read

And sounds:

Belle & Sebastian - Life Pursuit: unlike most B&S I've come across, a bit more beat-centric (what does that mean?...errr...a bit more beaty?)
The Delays - You See Colours: not as classic as the album I was convinced would be the sound track to the 2004 Olympics (it wasn't) but a gem none-the-less
Guillemots - From The Cliffs: dubious mention of dragons

Zero 7 - The Garden: at first a bit forgettable but then, that's why it's a creeper

Still no sign of Herman Melville's Moby Dick: a great white whale.

Stunned!

Just heard yesterday that Tio Jim has died. He was having a hip replacement operation in Mexico and died due to complications. Totally stunned - he was so fit and vital. Seems unreal that I was there only two months ago staying with him & Bettina, laughing and really enjoying life. Bloody harsh.

Here's a picture I'll cherish.



+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Obituary from the Guadalajara Reporter (23/12/2006):

James Rigby
Longtime Lakeside resident James Rigby died suddenly December 14 after suffering complications from a surgical procedure. He was 67.


Rigby was born in Liverpool, England in 1939. After spending the years of World War II on the Isle of Man with his family, he returned to Liverpool in 1946 to study prep school, later continuing his education at Stonyhurst College. He received a law degree in England and went on to study international law at the Sorbonne in Paris. He practiced law briefly in San Francisco, California and later in Vancouver, Canada where he also earned his pilot’s license. He then embarked on an extraordinary worldwide adventure, beginning with a tour by sports car down the Pan-American Highway through Mexico, Central and South America.

During an extended stay in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) he was involved in the founding of Silveira House, a distinguished Catholic social institution to teach the poor self-sufficiency through agriculture.Rigby later traveled through India and Afghanistan by bus and by camel, and then to Palestine, Israel and Europe. After three years on the road, he decided to settle in Mexico in 1970. It was a country that attracted him with its irresistible beauty. He moved to the Chapala area in 1979 to take up strawberry farming and later launched into exporting tropical fruit products.

Rigby was a great athlete throughout his life, playing rugby and cricket as a youth and becoming an avid tennis player and golfer in his later years. Above all, he was a devoted family man who advised his offspring to live by the tenet: “We are only in this world to increase the love that is around us; all the rest is nothing more than mundane trappings."

Rigby is survived by his devoted wife Bettina; two daughters, Marianne Rigby of Luis Obispo, California and Gabriela Rigby of Ajijic, both by his first wife Annabelle Fernandez, of Guadalajara. He also leaves behind three young grandsons and two brothers, Mark Rigby of Ixtlahuacan de los Membrillos and Paul Rigby of Ottawa, Canada.

Family and many friends gathered to bid him farewell at a funeral mass celebrated Friday, December 15 at Ajijic’s San Andres church. Gifts in his memory will be welcomed by the Mision San Pablo home for children who have lost their parents to AIDS, a charity which he and his wife have supported with great dedication.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Thursday, December 21, 2006

Hallowed exit to San Fran

San Francisco, October 31, 2006
Halloween, a time for ghosts, ghouls and foul fiends to run amok. John Bunyan would have loved it -
deviant! Halloween is BIG in the States, bigger than I could ever imagine. For the kids, there's trick or treating where they go around predominantly the neighbourhood shops and receive bountiful supplies of all things sugary and guaranteed to make you sick.

There seems less of an element of tricking than I was used to in my youth - shoving an apple up the exhaust pipe of Mr Allsop's Morris 1100 or simply burning down Mr Gorman's allotment shed. As I recall we often wouldn't give the victims a chance of offering a truce enducing treat. On occasion we would do the tricking at other times of the year just to keep people on their toes. In the States it's more of a marketing exercise for local enterprise than anything - sweets packaged up with promo labels. Particularly ironic was the sweet parcels being handed out by the local dentist, a bit like a doctor decorating the street with banana skins!

Halloween is also massive for the adults in San Francisco in the form of a Halloween parade in the Castro area (the gay area of the city but attended by all sorts of
Bunyan types like Dafydd Morris). I decided against going on account of my discomfort in large crowds. Quite glad - 10 people were shot in a...well...shooting incident.

And so ended Phase III. Here are some farewell snaps of San Francisco:

Baz in Vesuvio bar in North Beach with two of his work colleagues not looking too happy with the company. A typical San Francisco street, you can almost sense Steve McQueen from Bullitt in his green Mustang.


View of the city from Twin Peaks (nothing to do with the David Lynch series) and a rather cool tram. On the whole the trams were rather cool...and cheap...and jolly.



Castro area where Dafyyd Morris types like to hang out. Another jolly coloured tram.


The woody interior of a tram. I think I'm a bit tram obsessed. Oh heck.


Just round the corner from Hotel St Paul was Jack Kerouac Street and on the corner is the bar Vesuvio, a Beat hangout where Jack Kerouac, Neal Cassidy and probably Allen Ginsberg & Ken Kesey too would get roaring and spout Beat nonsense or total sense depending on your standpoint. I liked On The Road, seems a bit fitting for my current lifestyle (but don't worry Mum, without the amphetamines).

So here I am at San Francisco Airport, November 1, 2006 bound for Auckland NZ and phase IV of the trip. Blew the last of my US$ on sushi and a margarita. On on.

Marin County - home of mountain biking


Marin County - October 26, 2006
For years man has tried to fly. And then he realised it was easier to zoom downhill on an old clunker with fat tyres and gay abandon (whoever she is). Marin County, CA was where it all started. I went on a wee pilgrimage.




A sea gull bidding me 'bon chance' on my epic cycle venture and the steed that was going to take me on my journey of discovery.



Over Golden Gate Bridge and into Marin County. Ooh, that's a nice view of San Francisco behind. Take a snap! I have. Good.



Ah. Wrong turn and a scary tunnel. Take a pic. I'm trying, alright! Oh look, boats.



...and a plane, on the water. Terrific. And giant orange Maltesers.



The ferry back from Tiburon. We all know what we do on ferries...have a pivo.



Prisoners escaping en masse from Altcatraz in a flotilla of small sailing craft. Well I never...



Back into the city. That was fun.